Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Mua Noa He'e Nalu (First Surf)

Oh my. Yesterday was amazing! I got up at about 7 (as usual), and Kyle, Amanda, Wiking (pronounced Viking), and piled in the car. Wiking had one of the kitchen staff slice us a pineapple for the road. It was soo good. We headed out at about 10:00, getting to Haliewa around 10:15 so that we could rent some surfboards. We get to the store, and this sign was there... If you are having trouble reading it because of the glare or because you don't believe what it actually says, here it is:

Hawaiian Time Hours
Open: 9 or 10 
Sometimes 11
Mostly 12 or 1
Close: 5 or 6
Sometimes 4
Mostly 2 or 3
Closed for:
Big Surf Luaus no like work

Seriously. So we get there and the store is closed, its about 10:15, we decide to go and get some breakfast at the Haliewa Bakery, which has amazing cinnamon buns and pineapple iced tea. I love that they put pineapple in everything here. It just makes it taste so much better! After we went to the bakery, we headed back over to the surf shop to see if they were open, and they were. It was around 11, and we rented boards (only $10 for the whole day!) and tied them to the top of Kyle's car. Kyle and Wiking already have boards, so Amanda and I each got one. We rented the only two surfboards left to rent. Amanda's was a little shorter than a longboard, and it had a foam top, so its a little easier to ride. And I got a pink and white longboard. It was giant. I have a picture of me next to it, but it's on Amanda's camera, so I will post it soon. 
So, we went to the beach and ran right into the waves. The waves were pretty dead, but we got a few good ones every once in a while. Plus, I don't mind just sitting on my board in the ocean; it's very peaceful. I caught 2 and a half waves. The first time I fell off and as soon as I got my head out of the water, the board smashed me on the head. The half means that I got to my knees on the board, the other two were full standing for at least three or four seconds. I was very proud of myself, plus I had a blast. My arms are so sore, you can't even imagine how much you have to paddle when you surf. Its nuts. I have bruises on my hip bones from going straight through waves while they were breaking. My board kept hitting me, but it was totally worth it. Now I can proudly display the "Shaka," which is the surf sign with your thumb and your pinky out. I hope I get a chance to go again sometime soon. 
After we had our morning surf, we went to get an Acai Bowl, which is basically a smoothie in a bowl (made with Acai berries and other fruit) with granola, honey, and banana on top. It was amazing. 
We went out surfing again in the afternoon, watched the sunset at a really cool secluded beach (the picture at the bottom is of the sunset, and there was a guy board paddling--a mixture of canoeing and surfing) and then went to Haliewa Eats, which is an amazing Thai restaurant. It is actually the only restaurant I've been to yet, but out of the three times I've gone I have loved it. They have pineapple fried rice, oh man it is so good. If I haven't mentioned it yet, I love pineapple. 
I am so sore today. My arms are killing me. I was trained in the climbing wall and a few classes today. Someone asked 
me to climb so that they could belay, but there was no way my arms would let me today. But I did do well belaying and with the other classes. 
Now I am just sitting here resting and watching The Office (season 4), exactly what I need to relax. One of the cooks is letting me borrow her van tomorrow so that me and 3 of the girls I work with  are going to go to a mall in Pearl City tomorrow. I've had a lot of days off this week. Its great. I will only have two weekdays this week that I worked. Perfect.

P.s. As requested from Courtney, I will soon post a picture of me in my work costume.

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